Underground restaurant Rabbit Hole boasts upscale menu | Arts & Entertainment

A rabbit hole as a concept, nowadays associated with an internet search, is something many may fall into. However, at the downtown Colorado Springs restaurant and bar of the same name, access is far more dignified: simply walk down the stairs.

This subterranean eating spot is popular, so reservations are recommended. In fact, there are time limits as to how long diners may linger. It’s lively, and it’s dark thanks to the stone walls, but the lack of natural light doesn’t make much difference since The Rabbit Hole opens at 4 p.m.

The menu focuses on what’s described as “New American,” which simply means familiar fare prepared in creative ways using fresh, often seasonal, ingredients.

We began with risotto cakes ($13), which proved to be a clever and tasty appetizer. This was a variation on arranci, risotto balls filled with cheese. Here, cooked risotto was formed into patties and lightly fried for a crispy exterior that hid the creamy rice inside. The serving of two cakes was topped with roasted red pepper pesto, garlic herb aioli and micro basil leaves. This was an artisanal starter!

Less so was the artisan bread served with whipped butter. For $6 we expected more than a small, baguette-shaped loaf with herbed butter melted over the top. This was pre-sliced, but not all the way through. Initially, we tried to detach pieces with the table knife and finally had to resort to tearing them away.

This wouldn’t have been a problem except for leaving our hands greasy from having to hold the buttered crust in place. More disappointing than the effort involved in retrieving a slice was that there was nothing special about it.

Bison short ribs ($32) came with the kind of knife we needed to cut the bread but was superfluous when it came to the meat because it was so tender. It was a little fattier than expected for bison, but the flavor was rich and slightly sweet. This was served with buttery, garlic mashed potatoes, roasted whole carrots and dollops of pea puree that were mostly hidden by the carrots. This was elevated comfort food.

Equally impressive was the herb-crusted salmon ($34) topped with beurre blanc sauce. The velvety butter sauce complemented the well-cooked fish, which easily flaked apart with a fork. Al dente green beans and a large serving of black forbidden rice rounded out the entrée. The rice was nutty and chewy, but was the third wheel when it came to the fish and sauce pairing.

I’d be remiss not to mention the imaginative rabbit hole of Lewis Carroll’s “Alice in Wonderland.” There are many references to it throughout the restaurant that go beyond simply descending below street level, including artwork to cleverly named libations. Consider the bill of fare: It’s available via QR code and identified by the fateful (for Alice anyway) words “Eat Me Drink Me.” While the dining experience wasn’t magical; it was enjoyable. We appreciated good service and examples of good New American cuisine.

Note: The restaurant’s address is on North Tejon Street, but the entrance is through a well-lit, kiosk-like glass structure on East Kiowa Street.

The Rabbit Hole

Upscale dining

Location: 101 N, Tejon St.

Contact: 719-203-5072: www.rabbitholedinner.com

Prices: $16 to $42

Hours: 4-10:30 p.m. daily

Details: Credit cards accepted. Alcohol. Wi-Fi.

Favorite dishes: Risotto cakes and bison short ribs

Other: Gluten-free and vegan options available.